Skin-Contact Whites (Red Wine Drinkers Will Love)

Skin-contact white wine, or “orange wine,” is a category growing in popularity, but one that still confuses a great many wine drinkers. However, if you’re one of those wine lovers who says, “I only drink red,” this style of white wine may be right up your alley! Let me break down the reasons why.

First of all, the only reason red wines are even red at all is because the crushed grape juice spends time in contact with the dark skins of the grapes, effectively dying it. This process also leaches other elements into the wine, like tannins—which provide the mouth-drying sensation that can range from mild to quite strong, depending on the particular grape’s skin thickness, among other factors.

People who strongly prefer red wines to whites, I’ve found, do so usually as an aversion from the higher (to them, even strident,) acidity of white wines. They also lean towards a bolder, richer flavor profile, and a more textural mouthfeel. Guess what – orange wines can give all of that!

Simply, the process of making an orange wine allows the white wine’s crushed grape juice to spend some time macerating with its skins. This can range from hours… to months. This will cause the wine to gain color from absorbed pigments (becoming golden, amber, tawny occasionally, and sure, sometimes orange.) But it will also gain texture. It will pick up some tannins which will add a little bitterness or astringency to the wine. It may have a fuller body. Many skin contact wines aren’t filtered for clarity so may be cloudy with particulates, adding to the mouthfeel.

With white wines, we don’t usually use “tannin” as a descriptor, because compared to the huge range of ALL wines, reds included, the tannic effect is generally mild, even for longer-contact orange wines. So we often use the word “phenolic” – describing it as “phenolic grip” – because this texture comes from polyphenols. That’s about as nerdy as I’ll get! But it’s important to understand that orange wines will greatly range in levels of phenolics, due to the grapes used, time on the skins, and choice of fermentation and aging vessels.

It’s generally accepted that the longer the time on skins, the “funkier” the wine can be. This is because the skin-contact process adds savory elements that overtake the more delicate fruity and floral character of white grapes. (Also why, conversely, lighter red wines without much skin contact tend to be more aromatic and fruitier than their bolder counterparts.)

Here’s the tricky part. Orange wines range WIDELY in style, character, and flavors. So this is one time where you must have a discussion with your merchant or Somm to ensure you find one you’ll enjoy. Tell them your tolerance for/interest in funk. Would you prefer some notable fruit or florals to come to the party? Do you want a serious wine to pair with food, or a charming “porch pounder”? At any rate, if you choose intentional, well-made examples, this can be an arena where you’ll have a ton of fun playing.

Here are some of my favorite orange wines for red wine drinkers, some gateway, some nerdy. Comment below which ones you’ve tried that you love!

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2022 Domaine Glinavos Paleokerisio, Ioannina, Greece

A little unicorn of a wine – indigenous Greek varieties, lightly sweet, lightly sparkling, lightly funky, but absolutely charming. For lovers of Beaujolais Nouveau. ~$17/500ml

2023 Gulp Hablo (Parra Family) Castilla-La Mancha, Spain

One of my regular “gateway” recommendations. A blend of Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc, there’s a great aromatic lift that balances the savory side. It really does gulp down easy. Try if you like CA Pinot Noir. ~$17/1L

2022 Krasno, Goriška Brda Orange, Slovenia

Another delightful skin-contact wine made from aromatic varieties, so not too funky, but gives a pleasant, lightly bitter grip. Tropical fruit, apricot, a touch of herbs, quaffable but not overly simple. Try if you’re a Chianti fan. ~$20

2023 4 Kilos Mallorca Blanco “Motor America” Mallorca, Spain

Yet another great gateway orange, this has charming peachy/apricot fruit and an approachable structure. Made from 50/50 Malvasia and the indigenous Prensal. If you like young Rioja or Malbec. ~$23

2022 Kapistoni Goruli Mtsvane, Kartli, Georgia

Georgia (the country) is the O.G. skin-contact wine hub. They frequently age wines in qvevri or amphorae buried in the ground, which contributes more savory minerality. This combo tends to create a funkier wine, but this one is super well balanced. For fans of (Langhe) Nebbiolo or red Burgundy. ~$28

Okay, red wine lovers, what do you think? I can't wait to hear your reactions. Cheers.

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