Howdy, Imbibers… well, the end of the year just about galloped away from me. I’m sure for many of you too! I somehow missed a month and a half of I.I. so figured I’d overcompensate with THREE whole suggestions for you to up your wine game as we finish up the year.
October’s wine was going to be: Aligoté
- This “second” white grape of Burgundy is enjoying some revitalized interest. It tends to mimic Chablis in its vibrant, electric personality. Raspy acidity, chalky, sometimes I get notes of violet and quince, in the right hands it can be utterly fascinating. Now Aligoté is becoming more popular its prices are rising, but compared to top White Burgundies, it’s still relatively affordable. It will go great with your Thanksgiving turkey and the season’s first snowfalls, so give Aligoté a try! (Ah-lee-go-TAY)
November’s wine is: Mencía
- This Spanish red grape is found in the region of Bierzo and kind of splits the diff between Pinot Noir/Gamay and Merlot/Malbec. It can be deeply colored, medium to full-bodied, well-structured but not overpowering, with notes of red fruits and berries, florals, and a dusty mocha-y minerality. In different producers’ hands, it can be super juicy and quaffable or more serious and brooding, so ask your merchant for a personal recommendation to align with your preferences. Guess what, Mencía will also be a delicious accompaniment to holiday dinners, especially if you like fruity-but-not-TOO-fruity sips. (Men-THEE-a, or Men-SEE-a if the Castilian lisp feels too affected for ya.)
For December, your challenge is: Rhône wines
- Phew, I picked a very broad category, but the fact is that a lot of you don’t really think about wines from the Rhône when you think of France. Bordeaux and Burgundy get more of the red wine glory, and dozens of whites come to mind before people consider those from the Rhône. Well, do yourselves a favor and turn south! The Rhône is a very diverse region; I call it “the broomstick,” as the Northern part of the Rhône river valley is narrow, with vineyards hugging steep cliffs, and the Southern portion flattens and broadens out.
- In the NoRhô, Syrah is king. Typically unblended, it can be powerful and long-lived, or fresh and sunny. Top regions: Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage, but look for better values from Crozes-Hermitage, St. Joseph, and slightly more rustic Cornas. The main northern white is Viognier – there are two tiny appellations only for high-end wines from this grape, Condrieu and Château-Grillet. Unctuous, floral, heady, it will wrap you in its exotic perfume.
- In the South, the reds are blended, sometimes with a staggering number of varieties, but usually dominated by Grenache. (CA and Australia have taken a page from the SoRhô with their “GSM” blends; Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre, as these guys play beautifully with each other in many places.) You can find incredible values in Côtes du Rhône wines, there are many great ones around $15. The pinnacle in the South is Châteauneuf-du-Pape; these can be complex, intense, ageworthy, and quite varied depending on the blend and style of the producer. Southern whites are also often blended, featuring Marsanne, Roussanne, and others. They can be pretty full-bodied, melony and herbal, certainly specific but not off-puttingly alien, really worth a try.
- Need more? The Rhône also is home to distinctive rosés from Tavel and the sweet, fortified Muscat Beaumes-de-Venise, to name a few. You could shop only in the Rhône and pair with every part of your meal!
Imbibers, keep being adventurous and keep trying new wines, styles and regions. I will do my best to not lapse again so you can play along every month! But, for now – you have a lovely bounty of new wines to try, so I’ll leave you to it.
Don’t hesitate to reach out if you would like suggestions in your area. And any questions, thoughts, comments, please leave them below. Cheers!
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